Sensor cleaning

[Musty]

Hi All,

I am about to embark on cleaning my 20D sensor (got a few dust bunnies at
f/22). I already made some posts about this on r.p.d (but not a specific
question). My first plan of attack is to use the Rocket blower (which I
ordered from B&H). My plan is to have my significant other hold a vacuum
cleaner close (but not too close), while I use the rocket to shoot air on
the sensor (hoping that the vacuum will suck up the disturbed dust). Has
anyone tried this? Has anyone actually successfully cleaned their sensor
without resorting to physical touching techniques??

Also, how long can I expect the camera to stay in the sensor cleaning mode
when using a fresh battery?

Thanks
Musty.

[Jeremy Nixon]

Musty <musty@nospam.net> wrote:

> My first plan of attack is to use the Rocket blower (which I ordered from
> B&H). My plan is to have my significant other hold a vacuum cleaner close
> (but not too close), while I use the rocket to shoot air on the sensor
> (hoping that the vacuum will suck up the disturbed dust).

The vacuum is overkill. I'd actually be afraid it would stir up more dust
than it would eliminate. Don't bother.

> Has anyone actually successfully cleaned their sensor without resorting
> to physical touching techniques??

Yes, I use a compressed-CO2 blower to clean mine. It takes care of all
but major problems. I've even done it in the field once or twice, and
it takes all of five seconds. I'm sure you'd never get compressed CO2
cartridges onto a commercial plane, though, but I prefer to drive
anyway.

Physical cleaning isn't as big a deal as it might seem. It's intimidating
at first because of everything you've read and the knowledge that messing
up the sensor would be Really Bad, but once you try it (with the right
tools!) it's not especially difficult.

> Also, how long can I expect the camera to stay in the sensor cleaning mode
> when using a fresh battery?

Long enough.

--
Jeremy | [email]jeremy@exit109.com[/email]

[Ryan Robbins]

> Yes, I use a compressed-CO2 blower to clean mine.

Do NOT use compressed air.

[Jeremy Nixon]

Ryan Robbins <redbird007@verizon.net> wrote:

>> Yes, I use a compressed-CO2 blower to clean mine.

>
> Do NOT use compressed air.

Of course not, but clean compressed CO2 is fine.

--
Jeremy | [email]jeremy@exit109.com[/email]

[Musty]

"Jeremy Nixon" <jeremy@exit109.com> wrote in message
news:10t4r7jai9qs575@corp.supernews.com...

> Ryan Robbins <redbird007@verizon.net> wrote:
>

> >> Yes, I use a compressed-CO2 blower to clean mine.

> >
> > Do NOT use compressed air.

>
> Of course not, but clean compressed CO2 is fine.
>
> --
> Jeremy | [email]jeremy@exit109.com[/email]

Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I could
not find it. I tried CO2, carbon dioxide etc etc.

[Musty]

"Ron Lacey" <ron@ronstoons.com> wrote in message
news:7dt5t018h5j0j4dje9s0v4d225d768jg9d@4ax.com...

> On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 16:14:47 GMT, "Musty" <musty@nospam.net> wrote:
>

> >Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I

could

> >not find it. I tried CO2, carbon dioxide etc etc.

>
> I've never had a problem cleaning my sensor using a rubber bulb on
> either my D60 or 20D. I'd be wary of using any kind of compressed
> gas, air or CO2. Page 37 of the 20D manual clearly states "Never use
> canned air or gas to clean the sensor. The blowing force or the spray
> gas can freeze on the sensor."
>
> Ron
>
> Ron Lacey
> Murillo Ontario
> [email]ron@ronsfotos.com[/email]

My Rocket bulb blower should arrive tomorrow. I will try it out and let the
group know. It would be nice if it worked. I am happy to hear that it worked
for you. Do you have any suggestions (eg vacuuming the surrounding area in
the room prior to "blowing"). Should the bulb be prep'ed in any way before?

BTW, I took a shot of white paper yesterday @ f/22 followed by CS autolevels
so I can make a comparison. If people are interested, I will post the before
and after. What is the best "free" website to post images?

[Jeremy Nixon]

Musty <musty@nospam.net> wrote:

> Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I could
> not find it. I tried CO2, carbon dioxide etc etc.

Here's one (long link, oh well):

[url]http://americanrecorder.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=10&osCsid=1db8b9fe648af073c2e3bfa7 1fe9d48e[/url]

What you really want, generically, are the kind of CO2 cartridges that are
used in food preparation. They don't last very long and they aren't very
strong (which for this purpose is actually a good thing) but they are
clean. There's a "user review" on that page saying something like "some
users have reported residue when used to clean camera sensors", but I've
never had any problem with it and I blew a whole cartridge testing for
that before I let it near my camera.

--
Jeremy | [email]jeremy@exit109.com[/email]

[Jeremy Nixon]

Ron Lacey <ron@ronstoons.com> wrote:

> That should read...
>
> Never use canned air or gas to clean the sensor. The blowing force
> can damage the sensor or the spray gas can freeze on the sensor.

Compressed air cans, and some other forms of blowers, have propellants
and/or lubricants mixed in. Those are a problem. Since basically all
of what you'll find if you look for "compressed air" will fall into that
category, it's wise to tell people to avoid it.

But since no one wants residue in their whipped cream or seltzer any more
than you want it on your sensor, there's definitely a market for clean CO2.
I doubt there is anything called "compressed air" that you can safely use,
though.

--
Jeremy | [email]jeremy@exit109.com[/email]

[John Francis]

In article <10t62u2ldrbrq1d@corp.supernews.com>,
Jeremy Nixon <jeremy@exit109.com> wrote:

>Ron Lacey <ron@ronstoons.com> wrote:
>

>> That should read...
>>
>> Never use canned air or gas to clean the sensor. The blowing force
>> can damage the sensor or the spray gas can freeze on the sensor.

>
>Compressed air cans, and some other forms of blowers, have propellants
>and/or lubricants mixed in. Those are a problem. Since basically all
>of what you'll find if you look for "compressed air" will fall into that
>category, it's wise to tell people to avoid it.
>
>But since no one wants residue in their whipped cream or seltzer any more
>than you want it on your sensor, there's definitely a market for clean CO2.
>I doubt there is anything called "compressed air" that you can safely use,
>though.

I suspect the stuff I compress myself would be no worse than using
a bulb blower; I've got a compressor+tank for use with various items.

[Bob]

On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 19:03:19 GMT, "Musty" <musty@nospam.net> wrote:

>
>"Ron Lacey" <ron@ronstoons.com> wrote in message
>news:7dt5t018h5j0j4dje9s0v4d225d768jg9d@4ax.com.. .

>> On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 16:14:47 GMT, "Musty" <musty@nospam.net> wrote:
>>

>> >Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I

>could

>> >not find it. I tried CO2, carbon dioxide etc etc.

>>
>> I've never had a problem cleaning my sensor using a rubber bulb on
>> either my D60 or 20D. I'd be wary of using any kind of compressed
>> gas, air or CO2. Page 37 of the 20D manual clearly states "Never use
>> canned air or gas to clean the sensor. The blowing force or the spray
>> gas can freeze on the sensor."
>>
>> Ron
>>
>> Ron Lacey
>> Murillo Ontario
>> [email]ron@ronsfotos.com[/email]

>
>My Rocket bulb blower should arrive tomorrow. I will try it out and let the
>group know. It would be nice if it worked. I am happy to hear that it worked
>for you. Do you have any suggestions (eg vacuuming the surrounding area in
>the room prior to "blowing"). Should the bulb be prep'ed in any way before?

I'd suggest you get a large clean plastic bag and work in that... if it's big
enough - crawl in too!!

>BTW, I took a shot of white paper yesterday @ f/22 followed by CS autolevels
>so I can make a comparison. If people are interested, I will post the before
>and after. What is the best "free" website to post images?
>

alt.binaries.photos.original

is good...

[Larry]

In article <cqv7fr$p1s$1@panix5.panix.com>, [email]johnf@panix.com[/email] says...

> In article <10t62u2ldrbrq1d@corp.supernews.com>,
> Jeremy Nixon <jeremy@exit109.com> wrote:

> >Ron Lacey <ron@ronstoons.com> wrote:
> >

> >> That should read...
> >>
> >> Never use canned air or gas to clean the sensor. The blowing force
> >> can damage the sensor or the spray gas can freeze on the sensor.

> >
> >Compressed air cans, and some other forms of blowers, have propellants
> >and/or lubricants mixed in. Those are a problem. Since basically all
> >of what you'll find if you look for "compressed air" will fall into that
> >category, it's wise to tell people to avoid it.
> >
> >But since no one wants residue in their whipped cream or seltzer any more
> >than you want it on your sensor, there's definitely a market for clean CO2.
> >I doubt there is anything called "compressed air" that you can safely use,
> >though.

>
> I suspect the stuff I compress myself would be no worse than using
> a bulb blower; I've got a compressor+tank for use with various items.
>
>

Im lucky in that I have a source for "dried" air.. The compressors where I
work run the high temerature compressed air through a cooler (water jacket)
then through an air dryer that removes moisture down to a VERY low humidity
(in the area of 2% humidity).

That way we dont have to go on a daily treck throughout our plant and drain
the "water traps" on out air operated equipment, as they never have anything
in them.

Its a simple matter to construct a small air canister equiped with a Shraeder
valve for filling, and an oulet for blowing out equipment.

A simple air dryer can be made using a canister filled with the desicant
found in those little "desicant packs" that come in your electronic
equipment.

That desicant can be purchased in one pound cans at my local hardware store
for preventing mildew in basements and closets. I can fill my 4 quart size
with air at 120 psi about 20 times from a 2 horsepower compressor in my
basement before the desicant needs to be dried (several hours in the oven @
150 deg F) or replaced.

In conclusion, if you are at all handy with tools, and have a small
compressor you can make canisters of pure, dried air to use to clean things
out.

For my part, I went to the expense of putting a regulator on the outlet of my
portable canister, so I can reduce the pressure down to 10 or 20 psi for
cleaning delicate items.



--
Larry Lynch
Mystic, Ct.

[Rita Ä Berkowitz]

Larry wrote:

>
> That desicant can be purchased in one pound cans at my local hardware
> store for preventing mildew in basements and closets. I can fill my 4
> quart size with air at 120 psi about 20 times from a 2 horsepower
> compressor in my basement before the desicant needs to be dried
> (several hours in the oven @ 150 deg F) or replaced.

Larry, you have to be very careful with the desiccant you buy at the
hardware store that is used for drying basements since there is a 99% chance
it's calcium chloride. Calcium chloride is very hydroscopic and will suck
huge amounts of moisture from the air but has the major disadvantage of
dissolving into a liquid when fully saturated. This is what makes it a
great and cheap ice melt that is sold in 50# bags. I would hate to have
calcium chloride, which is highly corrosive, running through my air lines
and equipment.

Unless you know you are buying "Silica Gel" I wouldn't use it. Also, silica
gel won't dissolve in water.



Rita

[ZONED!]

Your idea is correct, please allow some clarification:
Techincally it is not hyGroscopic, but deliquescent. That is tending to
undergo gradual dissolution and liquefaction by the attraction and
absorption of moisture from the air.

[ZONED!]

Rita Ä Berkowitz wrote:

> Larry wrote:

> >
> > That desicant can be purchased in one pound cans at my local

hardware

> > store for preventing mildew in basements and closets. I can fill my

4

> > quart size with air at 120 psi about 20 times from a 2 horsepower
> > compressor in my basement before the desicant needs to be dried
> > (several hours in the oven @ 150 deg F) or replaced.

>
> Larry, you have to be very careful with the desiccant you buy at the
> hardware store that is used for drying basements since there is a 99%

chance

> it's calcium chloride. Calcium chloride is very hydroscopic and will

suck

> huge amounts of moisture from the air but has the major disadvantage

of

> dissolving into a liquid when fully saturated. This is what makes it

a

> great and cheap ice melt that is sold in 50# bags. I would hate to

have

> calcium chloride, which is highly corrosive, running through my air

lines

> and equipment.
>
> Unless you know you are buying "Silica Gel" I wouldn't use it. Also,

silica

> gel won't dissolve in water.
>
>
>
> Rita

Your idea is correct, please allow some clarification:
Techincally, calcium chloride is not hyGroscopic, but deliquescent.
That is tending to undergo gradual dissolution and liquefaction by the
attraction and absorption of moisture from the air. Also "highly
corrosive" is a subjective term, calcium chloride is slightly more
corrosive than table salt. I have handled it often with bare hands
(although I do not recommend this) and have never had any problems. I
also would never want salt water inside of any camera or electronic
gear.

[ZONED!]

Rita Ä Berkowitz wrote:

> Larry wrote:

> >
> > That desicant can be purchased in one pound cans at my local

hardware

> > store for preventing mildew in basements and closets. I can fill my

4

> > quart size with air at 120 psi about 20 times from a 2 horsepower
> > compressor in my basement before the desicant needs to be dried
> > (several hours in the oven @ 150 deg F) or replaced.

>
> Larry, you have to be very careful with the desiccant you buy at the
> hardware store that is used for drying basements since there is a 99%

chance

> it's calcium chloride. Calcium chloride is very hydroscopic and will

suck

> huge amounts of moisture from the air but has the major disadvantage

of

> dissolving into a liquid when fully saturated. This is what makes it

a

> great and cheap ice melt that is sold in 50# bags. I would hate to

have

> calcium chloride, which is highly corrosive, running through my air

lines

> and equipment.
>
> Unless you know you are buying "Silica Gel" I wouldn't use it. Also,

silica

> gel won't dissolve in water.
>
>
>
> Rita

Your idea is correct, please allow some clarification:
Techincally, calcium chloride is not hyGroscopic, but deliquescent.
That is tending to undergo gradual dissolution and liquefaction by the
attraction and absorption of moisture from the air. Also "highly
corrosive" is a subjective term, calcium chloride is slightly more
corrosive than table salt. I have handled it often with bare hands
(although I do not recommend this) and have never had any problems. I
also would never want salt water inside of any camera or electronic
gear.

[Rita Ä Berkowitz]

ZONED! wrote:

>
> Your idea is correct, please allow some clarification:
> Techincally, calcium chloride is not hyGroscopic, but deliquescent.
> That is tending to undergo gradual dissolution and liquefaction by the
> attraction and absorption of moisture from the air. Also "highly
> corrosive" is a subjective term, calcium chloride is slightly more
> corrosive than table salt. I have handled it often with bare hands
> (although I do not recommend this) and have never had any problems. I
> also would never want salt water inside of any camera or electronic
> gear.

Thank you very much for the correction, I'll make note of it for future
reference. I do realize you were very excited and wanted to be the first
person to correct me, but in your haste and bliss you posted three messages
on the subject when only one would suffice. Thank you again.

Rita

[Larry]

In article <1104429942.795194.95810@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups. com>,
[email]zoned@hotmail.com[/email] says...

> > Larry, you have to be very careful with the desiccant you buy at the
> > hardware store that is used for drying basements since there is a 99%

> chance

> > it's calcium chloride. Calcium chloride is very hydroscopic and will

> suck

> > huge amounts of moisture from the air but has the major disadvantage

> of

> > dissolving into a liquid when fully saturated. This is what makes it

> a

> > great and cheap ice melt that is sold in 50# bags. I would hate to

> have

> > calcium chloride, which is highly corrosive, running through my air

> lines

> > and equipment.
> >
> > Unless you know you are buying "Silica Gel" I wouldn't use it. Also,

> silica

> > gel won't dissolve in water.
> >
> >
> >
> > Rita

>
>
> Your idea is correct, please allow some clarification:
> Techincally, calcium chloride is not hyGroscopic, but deliquescent.
> That is tending to undergo gradual dissolution and liquefaction by the
> attraction and absorption of moisture from the air. Also "highly
> corrosive" is a subjective term, calcium chloride is slightly more
> corrosive than table salt. I have handled it often with bare hands
> (although I do not recommend this) and have never had any problems. I
> also would never want salt water inside of any camera or electronic
> gear.
>
>

Actually I tend to use the same dessicant we use at work,(it looks like
brownish purple sand, and never seems to break down or gel, probably a type
of silica-gel. We change it out on a semi-anual basis) but I have used the
"store bought" stuff a few times..

If you use "store bought", you need to keep it visible, so you can see its
state. If it even begins to clump, get it out and dry it, or replace it.

Silica gel is BEST but not always easy to come by.



--
Larry Lynch
Mystic, Ct.

[Rita Ä Berkowitz]

Larry wrote:

>
> Actually I tend to use the same dessicant we use at work,(it looks
> like brownish purple sand, and never seems to break down or gel,
> probably a type of silica-gel. We change it out on a semi-anual
> basis) but I have used the "store bought" stuff a few times..

I know what you are talking about, but I can't think of which chemical that
is. You might be using some form of molecular sieve as used in HVAC driers?

> If you use "store bought", you need to keep it visible, so you can
> see its state. If it even begins to clump, get it out and dry it, or
> replace it.

You can get silica gel with indicator beads mixed in. The beads are blue
when dry and pink when wet.

> Silica gel is BEST but not always easy to come by.

You can get it at your local craft store for drying flowers in 1.5 to 2#
cans for under $10.00. For reactivation, just bake in a 300* oven for
several hours.


Rita

[Musty]

"Musty" <musty@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:XbDAd.30024$yv2.16188@fe2.texas.rr.com...

>
> "Ron Lacey" <ron@ronstoons.com> wrote in message
> news:7dt5t018h5j0j4dje9s0v4d225d768jg9d@4ax.com...

> > On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 16:14:47 GMT, "Musty" <musty@nospam.net> wrote:
> >

> > >Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I

> could

> > >not find it. I tried CO2, carbon dioxide etc etc.

> >
> > I've never had a problem cleaning my sensor using a rubber bulb on
> > either my D60 or 20D. I'd be wary of using any kind of compressed
> > gas, air or CO2. Page 37 of the 20D manual clearly states "Never use
> > canned air or gas to clean the sensor. The blowing force or the spray
> > gas can freeze on the sensor."
> >
> > Ron
> >
> > Ron Lacey
> > Murillo Ontario
> > [email]ron@ronsfotos.com[/email]

>
> My Rocket bulb blower should arrive tomorrow. I will try it out and let

the

> group know. It would be nice if it worked. I am happy to hear that it

worked

> for you. Do you have any suggestions (eg vacuuming the surrounding area in
> the room prior to "blowing"). Should the bulb be prep'ed in any way

before?

>
> BTW, I took a shot of white paper yesterday @ f/22 followed by CS

autolevels

> so I can make a comparison. If people are interested, I will post the

before

> and after. What is the best "free" website to post images?
>
>

Tried the rocket bulb. It made no difference. At least it did not make
matters worse. Looks like I'll have to use more intrusive techniques...

[Musty]

"Musty" <musty@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:LF1Bd.27575$3v5.16931@fe2.texas.rr.com...

>
> "Musty" <musty@nospam.net> wrote in message
> news:XbDAd.30024$yv2.16188@fe2.texas.rr.com...

> >
> > "Ron Lacey" <ron@ronstoons.com> wrote in message
> > news:7dt5t018h5j0j4dje9s0v4d225d768jg9d@4ax.com...

> > > On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 16:14:47 GMT, "Musty" <musty@nospam.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > >Do you have a web link to a store which sells this compressed CO2? I

> > could

> > > >not find it. I tried CO2, carbon dioxide etc etc.
> > >
> > > I've never had a problem cleaning my sensor using a rubber bulb on
> > > either my D60 or 20D. I'd be wary of using any kind of compressed
> > > gas, air or CO2. Page 37 of the 20D manual clearly states "Never use
> > > canned air or gas to clean the sensor. The blowing force or the spray
> > > gas can freeze on the sensor."
> > >
> > > Ron
> > >
> > > Ron Lacey
> > > Murillo Ontario
> > > [email]ron@ronsfotos.com[/email]

> >
> > My Rocket bulb blower should arrive tomorrow. I will try it out and let

> the

> > group know. It would be nice if it worked. I am happy to hear that it

> worked

> > for you. Do you have any suggestions (eg vacuuming the surrounding area

in

> > the room prior to "blowing"). Should the bulb be prep'ed in any way

> before?

> >
> > BTW, I took a shot of white paper yesterday @ f/22 followed by CS

> autolevels

> > so I can make a comparison. If people are interested, I will post the

> before

> > and after. What is the best "free" website to post images?
> >
> >

>
> Tried the rocket bulb. It made no difference. At least it did not make
> matters worse. Looks like I'll have to use more intrusive techniques...
>
>

I need to re-state. I made a mistake. The problem is that I did not delete
the "before" pictures off my CF (these were taken afew days ago). The
pictures I took today after rocket bulb blowing show no dust bunnies!!!
Hooray!!